When
the French put a draft Constitution for a newly enlarged European Union to
a referendum in 2005, Pascal Verrelle voted passionately against it, hoping it
would stop the European Union in its tracks. He rejoiced when the effort
failed, yet was dismayed when the bloc kept gathering more members and powers,
anyway.
At
the time, Mr. Verrelle, a former soldier, was a prison director, but he
eventually felt compelled to enter politics and joined the far-right National
Front. When he was elected mayor of this small town in Provence eight months
ago, the first thing he did was to take down the European Union flag from City
Hall.
“In
2005, a majority voted against Europe, and we still find ourselves in Europe,
by magic,” he said, “and I find it inadmissible.”
Today
the European Union is wobbling under the weight of problems encouraged in part
by that unchecked expansion — stagnant economies, the euro crisis and deep
strains over migration, especially from newer members in Central and Eastern
Europe.
But
a visit to Le Luc and other villages in southern France is
a reminder that the European Union faces yet another serious problem long in
the making — a crisis of legitimacy — that is fueling right-wing, nationalist
politics even in the traditional core of the bloc.
For
Mr. Verrelle, 2005 was a watershed. Since then, opposition to a much-enlarged,
poorer and vastly more diverse European Union has only increased. So has
support for the National Front and its leader, Marine Le Pen, who has emerged
as a serious contender in France’s presidential race.
Having already suffered a “Brexit” vote
this year in Britain, Europe faces a series of critical elections in the year
ahead. But none is more important than the vote in France, a founding European
Union member.
The British decision to quit the
European Union was a major blow, but a victory by Ms. Le Pen could be the death
knell. And with the election of Donald J. Trump in the
United States, that prospect has taken on new weight.
“Donald
Trump makes Marine Le Pen sound reasonable,” said François Heisbourg, a special
adviser to the Foundation for Strategic Research in France and chairman of the
International Institute for Strategic Studies. “His victory gives her
respectability. Everyone knows she’s not Trump — she knows how to use a noun
and a verb and is intellectually coherent about what she wants and doesn’t
want.”
What
Ms. Le Pen wants is to lead France out of the euro currency and out of the bloc.
She has said she would hold a popular referendum, à la Britain, on French
membership in the European Union — a test of public will that mainstream French
politicians, she says, are afraid to have.
CreditDmitry Kostyukov for The New York Times
From the mood here in southern
France, a “Frexit” push would probably prevail in a referendum, just as 55
percent voted in 2005 against the Constitution that a former French president,
Valéry Giscard d’Estaing, had drafted.
The French “non” killed the
treaty, intended to create new federal institutions for a bloc enlarged the
year before by 10 countries, mostly former Soviet-bloc countries like Slovakia,
Poland, the Czech Republic and Hungary.
“In a way, Frexit already
happened,” said a prominent regional Socialist member of Parliament, Jean-David
Ciot. “Europe did not keep its promises, to create a world of wealth and full
employment.”
“People feel peace has been attained but fear that the rest of the
world has come to undermine this wealth,” Mr. Ciot added. “They fear Europe is
not protecting them from these migrants who come to pillage and steal their
wealth.”
Brexit, he said, is “just a
symptom of the rest — the feeling that we no longer share a common destiny.”
Since 2005, said Mr. Verrelle,
southern France has been shifting steadily toward the National Front and its
opposition to the European Union. In the last three elections, he said,
“support has been growing systematically.”
The former prison director is
scathing about the radicalization of young French Muslims and the dangers he
says he believes that uncontrolled immigration poses to France.
“When I saw the prayers in the
corridors of the prison, and others hiding their crosses, I knew we were lost,”
Mr. Verrelle said. “What’s most dangerous about Europe is the loss of borders,
and today we see the result,” he added, speaking of terrorist attacks and
migrant flows.
“I’m worried about Daesh,” he said, using an Arabic acronym for the
Islamic State. “We’re bringing in a Trojan horse times 1,000.”
As for the European Union, it
has no clear political direction, Mr. Verrelle said, adding that it is too
diverse economically for a single currency and too weak to allow freedom of
travel.
“We’re in Europe against our will,” he said.
“It’s a prison. It’s not a solution that will last.”
About 90 minutes away, in La
Tour d’Aigues, overlooked by the ruins of a Renaissance castle demolished
during the French Revolution, Ms. Le Pen’s National Front organized a protest
against plans to bring about 30 teenage asylum seekers from Afghanistan to the
nearby town of Grambois.
The protesters, fewer than 200,
were met by about 300 counterdemonstrators holding up banners showing
solidarity with the refugees, while 90 riot police officers, dressed in black
protective clothing, ringed the two groups to keep them apart.
Marion Maréchal-Le Pen, a niece
of Ms. Le Pen’s and a rising star of the National Front, addressed the crowd
from a makeshift podium, tossing her blond hair behind her.
“It is not the hate of others,
it is love for Provence, love for France,” Ms. Maréchal-Le Pen, 27, shouted
into the microphone, as counterprotesters whistled and booed to try to drown
her out. She railed against a “dictatorial” European Commission that “works to
undermine national sovereignty.”
Asylum seekers coming to France receive generous payouts, she said,
while the Vaucluse region, the home of La Tour d’Aigues, is the sixth poorest
in France, where one in five people are without jobs.
“We are against this completely
crazy plan to redistribute migrants,” Ms. Maréchal-Le Pen said in a brief
interview after her speech. The European project “is a failure,” she said. “We
need to build another Europe.”
The wave of anger and identity
politics is washing over France, with the ready-made instrument of a modernized
National Front under Ms. Le Pen.
She has now become both a symbol
and an agent of a kind of defensive French nationalism that is proving very
popular, especially in the southwest and north, near the Belgian border.
As the European Union struggles
with fundamental issues of coherence, policy and solidarity, she has also
become a plausible, if unlikely, president of France, almost sure to make the
two-candidate runoff for the post in May.
Brussels is an easy target,
especially for politicians like her seeking to blame domestic ills on some
supranational agency.
“There is huge disappointment
with Europe,” said Sylvie Goulard, a French member of the European Parliament
for this region. “But a tendency to blame Europe for national competencies —
hospitals and nurses, malaise of the police, housing — these are all
Franco-French failures, nothing to do with Europe.”
The mood is worse in the south,
Ms. Goulard said. “I’m from the south, and people are angry and frustrated,”
she said, “but you realize that lack of transportation or the failure to
integrate foreigners are not the fault of Europe, but Le Pen is exploiting
these issues.”
But even Ms. Goulard, who has
announced her candidacy to become speaker of the European Parliament,
acknowledges Brussels’s many failures. It has not created functioning external
borders, and its response to the migrant issue has caused severe strains among
member countries and undermined solidarity.
“It would be stupid to be too
optimistic,” Ms. Goulard said. “But we have tried to do something never done on
earth, to get so many people to live and trade together in peace.”
There are some strong proponents
of Europe, too.
Alain-Pierre Merger, president
of the Maison de l’Europe de Provence, the regional chapter of an association
that supports the European Union and promotes European citizenship, said that
it would be a tragedy to break up the union, and that young people now feel a
European identity that must be strengthened. “Europe is an idea, but it must be
seen to be working,” he said.
One of the members of the
chapter, Caroline Brun, 23, said: “This has been a tough year for our hopes.”
Many blame Europe for the
migrants, she said, adding: “But it’s not Europe. It’s the fault of the
politicians of European states who use Europe as a scapegoat.”
At La Tour d’Aigues, even the
town’s Socialist mayor, Jean-François Lovisolo, expressed disenchantment.
Europe has “failed to fight for a European identity,” he said.
The monetary and economic union
that underpins Europe did not translate into a closer political and social
union, he said, “and Europe is not working.”
Ms. Le Pen’s supporters could
not agree more. Édouard, a former colonel who served in Kosovo who declined to
give his surname, said at the rally that “we have not seen the benefits” of
Europe.
“My generation was told, ‘You
are European,’ and there was great hope and excitement,” he said. “But that
translated into a recession. It has been a terrible disappointment.
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